Truefitt & Hill 1805 Cologne

A gentleman of my period did not review his barber in public. That custom has changed, along with several others that deserved to. My assistant points out that readers may not share my familiarity with Truefitt & Hill, and has produced its 1805 cologne for examination.

Truefitt & Hill dates its establishment to 1805. The present name followed its 1935 acquisition of Edwin S. Hill & Co. The London shop still provides barbering services and sells shaving and fragrance products.

A visit to one’s barber in my own day involved less product selection than my assistant imagines. One sat in the chair while hot towels softened the beard and a lightly scented, usually tallow-based soap was worked into lather with the brush; the question of constructing a signature scent from an arranged collection of bottles did not arise.

After the straight razor and cold towel came a hair tonic, bay rum, citrus water, or lavender. These preparations were usually light. By luncheon one generally smelled of wool and the street. A persistent signature fragrance would have seemed theatrical.

The 1805 cologne begins with citrus, principally bergamot and mandarin, then settles into a clean middle and restrained musk. It is smoother and lasts longer than many colognes of my period, though it remains light by modern standards.

It recalls a traditional barbershop without smelling like a costume. Apply it with restraint. My assistant used four sprays and spent the morning opening windows, an experiment which need not be repeated.