Reference shelf

The Library

An annotated list of practical instruction, specialist communities, makers, and suppliers.

These are outside sources I have found useful. Some teach a method; others sell the equipment required for it. The distinction is worth keeping in mind, particularly when the same establishment does both.

Inclusion is not an endorsement of every opinion or product found on the linked site. The notes explain why each item is here.

Practical instruction

  • Back-To-Basics: Life Skills for Chaps

    Ash of The Chaps Guide demonstrates ironing, shoe care, and other household skills. His methods are calm and generally sound. The military crease he puts into a shirt sleeve is appropriate to a uniform, though not necessary for an ordinary civilian shirt.

  • Gentleman’s Gazette

    Detailed instruction on cloth, tailoring, construction, and the history of menswear. The commercial side is difficult to separate from the teaching, so learn the principles before assuming that another purchase is required.

  • The English Manner

    William Hanson explains etiquette with more attention to purpose than many instructors give it. His useful habit is to explain the social problem a rule was meant to prevent.

  • Mr Steven Moore

    Writing and programmes about antiques, material history, and the ordinary use of old objects. His interest is specific and informed, which is more useful than general enthusiasm for the past.

Shaving communities and demonstrations

  • r/wicked_edge

    A large wet-shaving forum. It is useful for comparing technique and troubleshooting equipment. Product enthusiasm can become its own hobby, as it tends to do in specialist communities.

  • The Barbershop Duet

    Longer demonstrations and conversations about traditional shaving, razors, brushes, and soap.

  • Make It a Great Shave

    Short demonstrations of products and shaving technique. Useful when a written description of angle or lather consistency has become needlessly abstract.

Grooming suppliers and makers

  • Truefitt & Hill Canada

    The Canadian shop for the London barber and grooming house established in 1805. Its shaving creams remain dependable. The history is interesting, but the products should still be judged as products.

  • Taylor of Old Bond Street

    A London grooming firm established in 1854. The shaving creams are easy to lather and widely available. Sandalwood is the best-known scent and should be sampled before buying in quantity.

  • Geo. F. Trumper

    A London barber and grooming house established in 1875. Extract of Limes is the notable cologne; the shaving creams and skin preparations have a long record of ordinary competence.

  • MacDuff’s Soap Company

    An Edmonton maker of shaving soap and related preparations. The soaps lather well, and the Alberta scents are more controlled than their names sometimes suggest.

  • House of Mammoth

    An independent American maker of shaving soap and fragrance. Useful for modern soap bases and scents outside the traditional barbershop catalogue.

  • Top of the Chain

    A Canadian retailer carrying razors, brushes, blades, soaps, and aftershaves from many makers. Particularly useful when comparing equipment without ordering each item from a different country.

Dress and household suppliers

  • John Lobb

    Bespoke and ready-made footwear. The services differ considerably in price and purpose, though both depend upon sound construction and repairable shoes.

  • Tricker’s

    A Northampton maker established in 1829, best known for Goodyear-welted country shoes and boots. Fit matters more than the reputation attached to the box.

  • Kent Brushes

    Clothes, hair, hat, and shaving brushes. A clothes brush is a modest purchase and extends the useful interval between cleaning wool garments.

  • Swaine

    Umbrellas and leather goods descended from Swaine Adeney Brigg. The solid-stick umbrellas are expensive, repairable, and meant for long use.

  • James Lock & Co.

    A London hatter established in 1676. Worth consulting when a hat is required for weather rather than costume.

  • Opinel

    Simple folding and kitchen knives with replaceable utility rather than decorative complication. The carbon-steel models require drying and occasional oil.

Note

Cables and brushes

Most households contain several cables whose purpose nobody remembers and no shoe brush. A shoe brush is more useful.